Potenay B12 Injection

 Potenay B12 Injection presents in its formula a vitamin complex that stimulates nutrition, associated with a substance with hypertensive action that aims at the quick recovery of animals.

Formula:

Every 100ml of solution contains:

Mephentermine Sulfate .................................................. 600mg

Vitamin B2 ..................................................... ....................... 200mg

Vitamin B6 ..................................................... ......................500.0 mg

Nicotinamide ..................................................... ........... 10,000mg

Calcium pantothenate ............................................... ..... 500mg

Vehicle eq....................................................... .................... 100mL

Action:

Mephentermine Sulfate: Hypertensive. It raises blood pressure, improving circulation and breathing.

Vitamin B2: Forms part of the cellular redox system. It favors growth and prevents nervous system anomalies.

Vitamin B6: Essential for the nervous system and for hematopoiesis, microcytic and hypochromic anemia refractory to iron.

Nicotinamide: Cures stomatitis, gingivitis, glossitis and angina.

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Indications:

Potenay B12 Injection can be used on animals even when the specific primary cause has not been identified. Lack of appetite, weakness, fatigue, stress, fatigue, anemia, malnutrition, convalescence from infectious and parasitic diseases. As a restorative and stimulating tonic during periods of pregnancy and lactation.

To increase muscle tone and stimulate the circulatory system, especially after handling animals, vaccinations, treatments, etc., as well as increasing the energy efficiency of animals in sporting activities.

At the time of coverage, as a tonic.

Posology and How to Use:

Dogs and cats: Administer intramuscularly, at a dose of 1 to 2 ml for every 10 kg.

Cattle, horses, pigs, sheep and goats: Administer intramuscularly, at a dose of 1 to 2 ml for every 25 kg of weight.

Specific recommendations for the use of Potenay B12 Injection can be made at the discretion of the veterinarian.

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Unveiling the Wonders of Animal Insulin

 A Vital Tool in Diabetes Management. Animal insulin was the first type of insulin to be administered to humans to control diabetes. Animal insulin is derived from cows and pigs. Until the 1980s, animal insulin was the only treatment for insulin dependent diabetes.

These days the use of animal insulin has largely been replaced by human insulin and human analogue insulin, however, animal insulin is still available on prescription.

Introduction

In the realm of medical science, few discoveries have been as transformative as insulin. This remarkable hormone, essential for regulating blood sugar levels, has been a lifeline for millions of people worldwide who live with diabetes. While synthetic human insulin is commonly used today, the history of insulin is intertwined with its animal-derived counterpart. In this blog post, we delve into the fascinating world of animal insulin, exploring its origins, production, and its significant role in diabetes management.

The Roots of Animal Insulin

The story of insulin began with the groundbreaking work of Frederick Banting, Charles Best, and their colleagues in the early 1920s. In their pursuit of a treatment for diabetes, they turned to animal sources, extracting insulin from the pancreases of animals such as cows and pigs. This animal-derived insulin marked a turning point in diabetes management, giving hope to individuals who previously faced dire consequences due to lack of effective treatment. Bmk Oil

Production of Animal Insulin

Animal insulin is derived from the pancreas of certain animals, primarily pigs and cows. The pancreas is a glandular organ responsible for producing insulin among other vital hormones. The extraction process involves meticulously isolating and purifying insulin from the pancreas. The resulting insulin is then processed and formulated into various types of insulin that mimic the natural insulin release patterns in the human body.

Types of Animal Insulin

Animal insulin comes in different forms to accommodate varying patient needs:

1. Regular Animal Insulin: This type of insulin closely resembles the insulin found in humans. It has a relatively slower onset and longer duration of action, making it suitable for managing blood sugar levels after meals.
2. NPH (Neutral Protamine Hagedorn) Insulin: NPH insulin is a longer-acting insulin that provides a basal level of insulin throughout the day. It contains insulin mixed with protamine and zinc, which delay its absorption.
3. Combination Insulins: These formulations combine animal insulin types to provide both basal and prandial (mealtime) coverage. They offer convenience by reducing the number of injections needed.

Advantages of Animal Insulin

1. Historical Significance: Animal insulin is a testament to the ingenuity of early diabetes researchers, and it laid the foundation for our understanding of diabetes treatment.
2. Availability: Animal insulin is still used in certain regions where synthetic human insulin might be less accessible or cost-prohibitive.
3. Options for Allergic Reactions: Some individuals who experience allergies to synthetic human insulin may find animal insulin to be a suitable alternative.

Transition to Synthetic Insulin

Despite its historical significance, animal insulin has largely been replaced by synthetic human insulin and newer insulin analogs. The development of recombinant DNA technology in the 1970s allowed for the production of insulin that is nearly identical to human insulin, minimizing the risk of allergic reactions and other complications. Synthetic insulin analogs further improved diabetes management by offering more predictable and customizable insulin action profiles.

Conclusion

The evolution of diabetes management has been shaped by the discovery and development of insulin, both human and animal-derived. Animal insulin holds a special place in the history of medical science, providing a lifeline to countless individuals with diabetes. While synthetic human insulin and insulin analogs have taken center stage in contemporary diabetes care, we must not forget the pioneering work that laid the groundwork for our understanding of this life-saving hormone. The story of animal insulin is a reminder of the relentless pursuit of scientific progress to enhance the lives of those living with chronic conditions.

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Laminitis for Horses from too High Grain Diet

 

As we all know diet and exercise plays a vital part to be healthy, not only for humans but for horses as well. And you would agree that sometimes balancing diet and exercise is easier said than done. Laminitis for horses can occur when overfeeding grains during low activity times.

This balancing is especially important in cold weather. Horses tend to stay at their stable, get less work or be sedentary while eating more.

According to Dr. Kellon, horses normally have to spend calories in winter. It helps to maintain their normal body temperature. And hay is the first good choice to feed because it is fermented in the hind gut which generates heat. But since hay is also low in calories, dense sources like grains may be a good addition if they are using too much energy.

Grains are an easily available source of calories. There are people that tend to feed their horse grains for a variety of other reasons. Including admirable ones, such as trying to make the horse happy. But the fact is the more you push grain into your horse, the more likely the horse is to develop a problem. Why?

Here’s the reasons grain can be a problem:

1. Overfeeding them with grains may result in overweight horses. Especially horses with less regular work or exercise to burn calories. Overweight horses have a higher percentage of insulin problems. And insulin problems may cause laminitis.
2. Grains naturally contain higher levels of sugar and starch.
3. High-grain diets have been also associated with all sorts of other problems, even behavioural problems.

Follow the recommended feeding rates to control the intake of sugar and starch. Taking into consideration their level of activity. Make sure also that you keep your grain secure with latches on doors and secure tops on storage bins. This helps to prevent accidental access and overeating. These cautions will help to prevent laminitis development and other problems.

Helpful tip: Allow your horse to lose weight or maintain a body score of around 2.5/5 during winter. That allows their systems enough capacity to cope with seasonal fluctuations in grass sugar levels in spring. And prevent them from laminitis development as well.

Hay and Grains sometimes won’t work so well for horses with metabolic problems. A fat supplement can be helpful since all the horse needs is extra calories and fat supplies. That is 5 times the calories of average grass hay and triple that of plain oats.

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Rugging Horses in Winter

Rugging horses can be a valuable asset when the weather turns cold.

Horses that are well-nourished and kept warm in cold weather are less likely to suffer from illness or injury.

Some people also keep rugs around their horses’ stalls to help them stay comfortable and dry.

But before deciding to rug your horse there are some important factors to consider first.

Factors to consider when rugging a horse

• Horses are very adaptable to different climates

The horse is a warm-blooded animal. It tries to keep its central (core) temperature close to 38°C irrespective of what the environmental conditions around it are. So, horses can be active all year round, and their activity does not decrease when it’s cold or hot.

But the disadvantage is that it must take in a lot more energy to generate the heat to keep the body at the optimal temperature. And it must use energy to cool itself down when the weather is hot.

Environment also plays a large part in the rugging decision. If horses are in large paddocks that have a variety of undulation they then have the ability to move into warmer or less windy locations by choice. In those situations rugs will often not be needed at all as the horses can regulate themselves.

Wind shelter is the most effective element for allowing horses to regulate their own conditions.

• Don’t rug horses based on how cold you feel!

In general, horses are comfortable between 5-25℃, whilst humans are comfortable between 25-30℃. That means that we feel cold before horses do, but horses feel hot before we do.

Outside of the horse’s thermoneutral zones (5-25℃) is when the horse must use other means to keep warm or cool.

• Rugs can prevent sunlight from reaching the skin which is necessary for the generation of Vitamin D.

An hour a day exposure without a rug should be enough.

• It is best to start with lighter rugs and move to thicker rugs as it gets colder.

Especially because over rugging may cause your horse to be too hot and sweaty. Sweating causes the skin to become hyper-hydrated and more prone to damage and infection.

• Older horses, young horses, thin horses and clipped horses will need rugs first

Young horses are smaller and often have less body fat and will lose heat more rapidly. Older horses can have a reduced ability to control their body temperature. Thin horses may not have enough body fat to insulate against the cold weather. Clipped horses have a shorter coat which may have less ability to retain heat.

• Weather, breed, coat, diet and shelter also have a contributing factor

Horses in small enclosures without access to windbreak shelters will need thicker rugs as the temperature drops.

Tip: Some horses cope better with cold than others. So whilst there are general rules, it’s still important to observe the individual horse.

How to determine your horse’s temperature?

A good spot to determine is by placing your hand under the rug behind the withers. If it feels cold then you may want to consider a thicker rug. If it feels damp then you may want to consider removing the rug as it’s likely your horse is too warm.

Conclusion

It is evident that horses can be rugged during the winter months with the proper care. By following a few simple tips, horse owners can help their horses stay healthy and comfortable during the cold weather.

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Why Is Feeding Before a Ride Beneficial?

 

Horseback riding is a fun and exhilarating experience. However, before you jump on a horse and go for a ride, you should always feed them. Here’s a look at why feeding your horse before a ride can be beneficial.

The Benefits of feeding a horse before a ride

• It provides energy and sustenance, which can help to prevent fatigue.
• It also helps to build a bond between the horse and rider.
• And most important, it helps in preventing acid burns and ulcers and other digestive issues.

The Digestive Process

The stomach of a horse has a glandular and non-glandular portion. Acid sits on the glandular portion of the stomach which is below the non-glandular section. These acids splash up when a horse moves with an empty stomach.

The Risks associated with not feeding a horse before a ride

• The splashing of stomach acid up can cause burns and ulcers in the non-glandular portion of the stomach
• Horses can become weak and tired.

Tips for pre-ride feeding

• Feed your horse with forage before you ride. It can help to create an acid cap in their stomach that helps prevent the splashing of stomach acid up into the non-glandular portion of the stomach.
• Provide them with quality fiber. Fiber can aid in the prevention of ulcers.

How much forage should you feed a horse before riding?

• 2 kgs – 2 hours without forage
• 1-2 kgs – Half an hour to 2 hours without forage
• 250-500g – whilst being tacked up

Remember, every horse is different and some may need more or less hay than others. It’s important to get to know your horse and their individual nutritional needs.

Conclusion:

Feeding a horse before a ride can provide many benefits that make the experience more enjoyable for both horse and rider.

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Can Horses Swim

Yes! A horse can swim. Many vets and training institutes suggest swimming for the horses for their fitness. It is always a fun activity during a warm sunny day as long as you and your horse are ready for it. To prepare any pet for swimming, you have to train him physically as well as mentally. It is essential to teach them how he can enjoy in the lake, river, or even in the ocean. You have to create your own signals that can help your horse to learn faster and swim safer.

How Do Horses Swim?

Level 1: Train Your Horse On The Ground

If you think that you should train your horse to the edge of the water, I am afraid it is not the right approach. Firstly, you have to teach him the basic cues on some firm grounds. He must understand how to respond when you approach him with the basic rein cues. Once you and your horse are in the water, you will be unable to see each other. So, teach your horse how to behave in the water and not get scared/panicked during swimming.

Level 2: Find A Safe And Clean Swimming Spot

After completing the training on the ground, find a safe swimming spot. Carefully check if there are some obstacles underwater. If there are some broken trees, branches, or other garbage such as glasses, pilings, etc., remove them. Also, make sure there is not a steep drop-off or deep mud into the water. The underwater bottom should be sandy and must have a lot of space for the horse to swim.

Level 3: Prepare Your Horse Mentally

Before going to the swimming place, keep one thing in mind that if your horse hesitates or refuses to come into the water, it is not the right time. Teach him or revise all the cues to make him aware of the little bit of water before causing him to swim. Also, as a horse’s legs are long, you should use a stick to know how the bottom may react to the force. Plan to get wet and muddy before swimming. Train them to keep their eyes, ears, and nose above the water surface.

Level 4: Training In The Shallow Water

Many horses are fascinated by water. Initially, they roll and make noises enjoying the water. But, he doesn’t want to do anything more than that. He tries every possible way not to go in the water. That’s why it is essential to review your ground lessons. This way, you can guide him to move ahead and stay in the water. Give him time to look and smell it so that he can convince himself that the water, the swimming spot, and swimming as a whole is safe. He and his master both will be fine here.

Being a rider, you have to make sure that you can’t afford to go into the water until and unless you are fully confident about the excellent control. Firstly, give him the ‘Go Forward’ cue. If it doesn’t work out, go somewhere else, and revise the signals. Never force him as it is dangerous for you both. You can try to pamper him by splashing some water on his belly, chest, or legs. Most horses love it and allow you to splash even on the back. Make him realize that water is a fun thing.

Level 5: Allow Your Horse To Swim

Cues and exercises make the swimming activity easy for the horse and help you to move your horse further into the water. Let your horse take his time. He may make circles, and after some time, he starts swimming in the same formations. At the time of swimming, just like humans, he will bring his hind legs up and stretch them to the side and then behind. (Never swim behind the horse and have a safe distance to avoid his kicks under the water.)

This way, a horse can swim. Many people also ask me if a horse can swim with a rider or not. Let me give you some information about the same.

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